The Froth!
Have you ever had that feeling where the excitement inside of you is bubbling up cochiously that you feel like your insides could burst out of your skin?
I hope the answer is YES. if it’s no then I strongly recommend you get your self off your butt, away from the Ipad & find that activity which allows you to feel on the edge of life, the feeling like you are really living or as some might say “frothing!” Kids froth from an early age, next time you play hide & go seek with your kid watch their reaction when you find them, their face shows it all not to mention the high pitched scream that pierces your ear drums. A ‘gromet’ (typically a young person) is refereed to someone who has found the love of surfing & no matter what the ocean condition is, no matter the size of the wave or what time of the day it is they’re in the water with big smiles soaking up every last wave that rolls through. If it wasn’t for sleep & food I don’t think a gromet would ever get out of the water. Occasionally you will meet an older person who resembles a gromet, this person has definitely not lost the froth! The froth is most definitely alive in Phuket where last Saturday produced some epic waves, then on Sunday the swell dropping to nothing but a few messy knee high close outs. The same group of surfers I saw we’re having equally as much fun on both days. Its an amazing thing how other people’s reactions can make you feel, & witnessing these surfers frothing left me frothing, thanks guys.
Tim’s Tip: If your having a bad day, go surfing it’s the cure for everything!
Tim Campbell